The 2008 Dogliani Papa Celso comes across as dark, brooding and powerful, all qualities that are typical of Dolcetto from Dogliani. The Papa Celso is a bit taut in this vintage, but it nevertheless delivers tons of quality for the money. Blackberries, violets, tar and smoke sit on a mineral-infused frame of notable length. This is a fabulous effort from Abbona. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700