The 2009 Dogliani Papa Celso is wonderfully complete. It has an extra dimension of roundness that makes it so immensely appealing. In many years the Papa Celso is a big wine with more of a profile that tends towards black fruit, but the 2009 is a bit more feminine, with sweet floral notes that add lift to the dark raspberries, cherries and red plums. This is a very strong showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This is a fabulous set of wines from Marziano Abbona, a grower who deserves more attention than he gets.Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Cherry jam, boysenberry and black pepper flavors are at the core of this supple, generous red, which is concentrated and firmly structured, with a lingering aftertaste of fruit and spice. Drink now through 2015. 350 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Dogliani Select to Add

True to the natural characteristics of the celebrated Dolcetto grape (a native variety of northern Italy), Papa Celso opens with plump and superrich aromas of blackberry, cherry liqueur, chocolate fudge and sweet tobacco. Very nice. ——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 88