Its awfully hard not to admire Marziano Abbona’s 2007 Dogliani Papa Celso. This floral, spiced Dogliani (Dolcetto) offers notable finesse in its aromas and flavors. The Papa Celso has often been a big full-bodied offering, but in 2007 there is a touch more refinement and elegance, and the wine’s mineral elements play a larger role in the wine’s balance. This harmonious, caressing Dogliani is best enjoyed over the next few years, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it drank well beyond my drinking window. . Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700