The 2008 Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rive di San Floriano is sinewy, powerful and incredibly structured, with tons of bright, penetrating minerality. Smoke, ash, minerals and white peaches linger on the dry finish. The San Floriano is a serious wine best enjoyed with food rather than as an aperitif. It is the Salon of Prosecco. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Nino Franco makes some of the finest Proseccos readers are likely to encounter. These wines are loaded with tons of personality, something that has become increasingly hard to find with the huge boom in production levels the region has seen. Importer: Vin Divino, Ltd., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700