This domaine has long been known for its rustic, traditional, old-style Gigondas. The robust, rich, chewy, massive 1990 displayed the dried pit fruit, spicy, peppery, cherry flavors, robust tannins, and high-alcohol style that has increasingly fallen out of fashion. The 1990 should prove to have uncommonly long life, even for a Gigondas, and last for up to 20 years. This pure, old-style wine, which displays the essence of Bing cherries in its super extracted, husky style, it reminiscent of the old-vine, super ripe style that Rayas extracts from their Grenache. It unquestionably warrants attention. Anticipated maturity: now-2005. Last tasted 6/95. Proprietor Raymond Boutiere has always made one of the most robust wines of Gigondas. Most of the vineyard is on the plateau, fanning out from the Dentelles, and thus benefits from this torridly hot, dry microclimate. Raymond is inching into retirement as his son, Guy, takes over the operation of this estate. The Boutieres ferment all the wine in concrete and old wood vats, and then bottle the wine following a minimum of 18 months of aging. While some wine is still sold to negociants, increasing quantities are estate-bottled. They are full-blown, rich, spicy Gigondas that, like so many wines in this village, can be irregular, but when they get everything right, they are riveting examples of old winemaking and big, muscular, chewy wines for those with nineteenth-century palates.