The 1992 Gigondas reveals a meaty, prune, and underbrush-scented nose, disjointed flavors, and a soft, tannic, awkward finish. Last tasted 6/95. Proprietor Raymond Boutiere has always made one of the most robust wines of Gigondas. Most of the vineyard is on the plateau, fanning out from the Dentelles, and thus benefits from this torridly hot, dry microclimate. Raymond is inching into retirement as his son, Guy, takes over the operation of this estate. The Boutieres ferment all the wine in concrete and old wood vats, and then bottle the wine following a minimum of 18 months of aging. While some wine is still sold to negociants, increasing quantities are estate-bottled. They are full-blown, rich, spicy Gigondas that, like so many wines in this village, can be irregular, but when they get everything right, they are riveting examples of old winemaking and big, muscular, chewy wines for those with nineteenth-century palates.