The 2006 Barolo Le Brunate is the alter-ego to the Cannubbio. Here the fruit is dark, mysterious and totally captivating, with balsamic notes of spice and menthol that develop in the glass. There is wonderful depth and clarity in the glass, not to mention considerable heft, but all within the context of traditionally-made Barolo. The finish is long, pure and austere in the best of senses. Once again, the combination of traditional winemaking with a contemporary approach to the vineyard management, and cellar cleanliness has yielded a wine of exceptional purity. Readers who enjoy firm, ageworthy wines will want to put this high on their shopping lists. Anticipated maturity: 2021-2041. The transformation that has taken place at Francesco Rinaldi over the last few years is truly remarkable. It wasn’t that long ago that the wines were harsh, lean and excessively austere, even within the context of traditionally made Barolo. Not any more. Today’s wines are cut with beautiful precision and show exceptional harmony. Even better, they won’t take decades to come around. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010; Triage Wines Inc., Seattle, WA; tel. (503) 236-6262; World Wide Cellars, Minneapolis, MN; tel. (612) 378-0025; Classic Wine Company, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 871-9463