A perfectly solid, well-made Chianti in every sense. The nose is spicy, with hints of wood smoke, barbecue sauce, cedar and coconut. The palate delivers requisite berry, plum, cherry and tea in a fine wrapping, while the finish is harmonious, with bits of espresso and chocolate. Not in-your-face, but still fairly forward. ——W.E.(4/1/2005)—— 89