The 2008 Zinfandel Pagani Ranch is a blend 85% Zinfandel, 10% Alicante Bouschet, and the rest Petite Sirah that tips the scales at a lofty 15% alcohol. Possessing ripe black cherry and blackberry fruit intermixed with some wood spice, earth, and subtle herbs, this wine cuts a broad, rich, full-bodied swath across the palate. More exuberant and richer than the more elegant Lytton Springs, this is full-throttle Zinfandel at its best, but beautifully pure, textured, and long. It should drink well for 7-8 years. Tel. (408) 867-3233; Fax (408) 868-1350

Awkward, showing overripe, Porty flavors and undesirable sweetness. There’s a sugary undertow to the blackberry jam, prune and raisin flavors. ——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 83