The 2004 Montefalco Rosso Vigna San Valentino is a delicate, ethereal wine redolent of sweet cherries, flowers, spices, tobacco and earthiness. Medium in body, it reveals tons of finesse in a delicate, understated style. Though still quite fresh considering its age, the wine’s relatively small-scaled structure suggests it is best enjoyed over the next few years. In 2004 the estate experienced quite a bit of hail, so all of the fruit for this wine came from the second flowering. The Rosso is 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, and 15% Montepulciano from a 50+-year-old vineyard in which all the grape varieties are planted together. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. My visit with Giampiero Bea was illuminating, as we spent several hours tasting through virtually every wine in the cellar. Bea has a number of promising wines in cask that should satisfy the cravings of his most passionate fans. Among the wines that will be released in coming years is a new Sagrantino from the Rignano vineyard which is a stone’s throw from the winery. The new cellar, still under construction, is decidedly stark and minimalist in style. Bea pursues a natural, non-interventionalist approach. The wines undergo fermentation without temperature control, using only ambient yeasts. Malolactic fermentation takes place in steel, though here, too, the timing and pace is dictated by nature. The wines are neither fined nor filtered prior to being bottled, and all important operations are undertaken according to the lunar calendar. To be sure, this is high-risk winemaking. The results can be striking, but they can also be quite variable when nature decides to be capricious. Bea prefers hot vintages such as 2003 and 2007, so it is no surprise he is most excited about those vintages. While those wines certainly possess impressive concentration, my sense is he might be able to do more in less favorable years like 2004 and 2005, where some of the wines lack a touch of depth. Bea’s labels contain a wealth of information about the vintage and how each wine was made, although the notes are only printed in Italian. Longtime fans of the wines will notice that in recent years the specific names of the vineyards have taken greater prominence in the labels. The Bea wines are all about subtlety, grace and elegance. At their best, they are among the finest wines to emerge from Montefalco, and Italy, for that matter. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800)?910-1990