The 2004 Barolo is an attractive mid-weight offering with a perfumed core of dark fruit, licorice, tar and smoke. The tannins remain rather firm, but the wine reveals plenty of energy and vibrancy. Rinaldi’s Barolos are typically very long-lived yet this is a wine I would prefer relatively young, before the fruit fades. This Barolo is made from vineyards in Barolo and La Morra. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. This is a beautiful set of wines from Francesco Rinaldi, a traditionally-minded producer whose Barolos have improved markedly in recent years. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010; Triage Wines Inc., Seattle, WA; tel. (503) 236-6262; World Wide Cellars, Minneapolis, MN; tel. (612) 378-0025; Classic Wine Company, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 871-9463