The 2011 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore La Cengia is exceptionally beautiful and balanced. There’s a lot going on: background tones of balsam herb, rosemary and black olive follow straightforward aromas of dried fruit and prune. A pretty touch of eucalyptus springs forth. The wine is incredibly light, buoyant and lively despite the elaborate Ripasso process. Drink 2014-2018. If you can name but two producers in Valpolicella (I’m betting they are Dal Forno and Quintarelli), it’s now time to add a third: Lorenzo Begali. Lorenzo and his children Giordano and Tiliana make the most exciting wines in the region today. These are inaugural reviews (Begali has never been reviewed by The Wine Advocate). Visiting this small estate, tall and lanky Giordano will win you over with his impassioned dedication to the traditional Pergola Veronese growing system. He and his father believe that overhead trellising is the secret to making quality wine and controlling yields. Having now tasted this beautiful collection of new releases, I am a true Begal-iever. Importers: Siema Llc., www.siemawines.com; Vignaioli Imports, www.vignaioliamerica.com; Un Po Pazzo, www.unpopazzo.com