The 1996 Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé shows a sophisticated and elegant side that is hard to achieve with the Zibibbo grape, which normally tends to be more immediate and intense in its aromatic delivery. This wine offers a surprising level of nuance and subtle background shadings that make it more difficult to read upon initial evaluation. The bouquet is slightly less aromatic on first examination, but it builds momentum with time to offer steady pulses of dried fruit, caramel, balsam herb and licorice. Those ethereal overtones are beautifully paired against the wine's overt sweetness and stickiness. This vintage shows it evolution, but it also proves to be very focused and exquisitely defined.