The folks at Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s most dynamic wineries, have inaugurated a new winery on the volcanic island of Pantelleria fully dedicated to the production of their precious Ben Rye passito. The amber-colored wine is vibrant, brilliant and its purity of aromas is outstanding. Dried figs, apricot, honey, almond and fragrant herbs are delivered in thick, generous layers. Tingly acidity cleans the palate and powers a long, delectable finish. Made from sun-dried Zibibbo grapes, this wine is the best of its kind and can be paired with sugary treats or, better yet, with Stilton blue cheese or gorgonzola.——M.L.(2/1/2008)—— 95