The 2004 Barolo Prapo offers a balsamic-infused array of dark fruit, tar, menthol, spices, minerals and new leather in a medium to full-bodied style. While the tannins are firm, the wine also appears to have enough stuffing to provide balance, although this brooding Barolo is best left alone in the cellar for a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Proprietor Luciano Pira is typically among the last producers to bottle his Barolos, so these 2004s are the current releases. Incidentally, the Schiavenza family also runs an informal trattoria in the center of town that features authentic regional cooking at very fair prices. Importers: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800; caroline debbané selections T. 323.472.5242 | F. 323.472.5157

Restrained, pure, black cherry nose. Linear, austere, spartan. Mineral, stony palate. Fine tannins: long, inky, slate finish.