The 1998 Angélus, a blend of 40% Cabernet Franc and 60% Merlot, is deep garnet colored with a touch of brick. The nose is completely...WOW! It has an incredible array of smoked meats, incense, cigar box and dusty earth notions over a core of baked cherries, dried mulberries, preserved plums and dried roses with wafts of lavender, menthol and new leather. The palate is medium to full-bodied, rich, intense and packed with black fruit preserves accented by complex savory and earth-inspired flavors, supported by wonderful freshness, textured by plush tannins and finishing with fantastic tension. This still has loads of life—25+ more years!

A dazzling effort, the 1998 boasts an opaque purple color in addition to an exceptional bouquet of smoke, licorice, plums, black raspberries, and blackberries. As the wine sits in the glass, coffee and chocolate also emerge. Full-bodied, flamboyant, well-delineated, and beautifully balanced as well as layered, with well-integrated tannin in the powerful, rich finish, this 1998 will be at its best between 2003-2020.

Intense aromas of coffee bean, chocolate and currant bush follow through to a full body, with soft and velvety tannins and a long and rich finish. The toasted oak still dominates the palate a bit, but it's rich and concentrated. Give it time still.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2010. 6,665 cases made. -JS