An underrated wine, the 1989 Calon-Ségur is drinking beautifully, unfurling to reveal aromas of cherries and dark berries mingled with notions of cigar box, loamy soil, black truffles and grilled meats. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and muscular, with a generous core of fruit, ripe tannins, low acidity and a long, lusty finish, it is another 1989 that's going from strength to strength as its structure softens with age.

An enormous, bruising, highly extracted wine. Dark brick-red color. Plummy, earthy aromas and hints of aniseed and game. Full-bodied, incredibly ripe, with raisin, tobacco and earth on the slightly dry and overextracted finish. Overdone? I overrated this when it was young.--1989 Bordeaux horizontal. Best after 2004. -JS