The smoked oak-scented 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot is plush, fat, and medium-bodied. Soft pears and apples are interspersed with spices in its long, pure character. While it lacks the outstanding balance of the Chaumes, it is an excellent, fruit-forward offering. Drink it over the next 4 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The smoked oak-scented 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot is plush, fat, and medium-bodied. Soft pears and apples are interspersed with spices in its long, pure character. While it lacks the outstanding balance of the Chaumes, it is an excellent, fruit-forward offering. Drink it over the next 4 years.

A gentle, indeed very subtle hint of oak spice complements the powerful, expressive herb and earth nuanced nose merging into rich, muscular, robust and slightly woody flavors that display excellent length. This is dense enough to absorb the oak but it may require a year or two in bottle to do so.