Made only in stainless steel, the 2013 Terre di Vulcano is a simple and delineated red wine with bold fruit tones followed by crushed mineral, wild berries, ash, smoke and licorice. The wine is envisaged as an entry-level red for easy-drinking, but there is more complexity here than you may initially expect. Long, polished tannins help to build momentum on the palate.

The 2008 Aglianico del Vulture Terra di Vulcano is a gem. It reveals gorgeous textural richness that belies its elevage in stainless steel. There is plenty of varietal and regional character in this beautifully balanced, stylish Aglianico. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2007 Aglianico del Vulture Terra di Vulcano is rich and expressive in its dark fruit, minerals, dried herbs and espresso. It shows gorgeous juiciness in a generous, fruit-driven style. Mint, violets and minerals add the final flourish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Bisceglia is one of my favorite producers in Basilicata for bold wines loaded with personality. These two reds are well worth checking out. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Readers looking for an Aglianico that won’t break the bank should check out Bisceglia’s 2006 Aglianico del Vulture Terre di Vulcano. Layers of sweet dark fruit, spices, menthol and minerals all come to life in this engaging and delicious red. Even at this entry level, the wine has the pedigree that makes Aglianico one of Italy’s most important varieties. The wine was aged in stainless steel, which keeps things fresh and vibrant. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. I was struck by the wines I tasted from Bisceglia this year. The property is located in Basilicata, where Aglianico reigns supreme. That said, the estate has had notable success with international grapes as well. These stylish wines reflect the personality of proprietor Mario Bisceglia and bode extremely well for the future. Importer: A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620