Like the Les Chaillées de l'Enfer, the 2019 Condrieu Coteaux du Vernon spent a year in a mix of foudres and barriques, about 20% of which were new. Marked by attractive, complex notes of narcissus, honey and gingery spice, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and expansive on the palate without going overboard, and it seems to have seamlessly absorbed any oak influence, finishing long, with echoes of citrus and spice.

The 2017 Condrieu Coteaux du Vernon comes across as more similar stylistically to the 2015 than to the 2016. It has explosive floral and tropical fruit aromas but then seems tight, citrusy and crisp, with some resiny-oaky notes on the medium to full-bodied palate. It's the rare Condrieu that (at least in this vintage) needs a year or two to come into its own, but it should drink well through at least 2025.

Nearly always one of the top wines of the appellation, the 2016 Condrieu Coteaux du Vernon, from vines planted in 1936 and 1960, doesn't disappoint. Aged in 25% new oak, it does show hints of toast and mocha but also incredible floral and spice aromas. Apricot and pineapple fruit flood the medium to full-bodied palate yet never seem heavy despite a sensation of silken richness. It has a wonderfully succulent texture married to tremendous focus and length. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent results.

For the vintage, the 2015 Condrieu Coteaux du Vernon shows notable tension. It's tight, citrusy and gingery on the nose, then a bit lean on the palate, showing hints of bergamot and lime. Somehow, the finish manages to combine velvety richness and vibrant zestiness into a coherent, harmonious whole.