The 2010 Barbera d'Alba Superiore Vigna della Madre is a beautiful rendition of Barbera that opens with an inky, dark appearance and follows to the nose with pretty fruit tones of black cherry and plum that are intense and linear without going over the top. There's a sharp sour note of bright acidity at the back that will appeal to die-hard Barbera enthusiasts. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Importers: Oliver McCrum; Petit Pois Corp - c/o Moore Brothers; Voliovino; Vigneti D;Italia; Morgan Import; D.B.Wine Selection; Distinnctin Italian Wine

The 2009 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Vigna della Madre bursts from the glass with an exciting array of dark cherries, plums, spices and mocha. Although quite flashy in style, the 2009 is also nicely balanced and polished throughout. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 654-9159; Sussex Wine Merchants Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9694

The 2008 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Vigna della Madre reveals gorgeous delineation in its sweet dark cherries, plums, minerals and menthol. This is a cool style of Barbera that impresses for its understated elegance, finesse and sheer minerality. I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Sergio Germano is doing wonderful work in Serralunga. There is no doubt his wines deserve more recognition. As is often the case, I find the Barolo Riserva from Lazzarito – one of Serralunga’s top sites – too heavily marked by oak. Otherwise, these are all very fine offerings. Germano recently inherited a parcel in the famed Vigna Rionda. That vineyard is now being replanted, but once the vines are in production, Germano will have a fabulous quartet of Serralunga vineyards from which to draw. But the pressure is on, as there is now no reason the wines can’t and shouldn’t be great. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 654-9159; Sussex Wine Merchants Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9694