The 2006 Barolo Vigna La Villa Paiagallo flows with layers of dark fruit, smoke, licorice and tar, showing superb concentration. The 2006 possesses a decidedly more classic texture and feel than has been the case in other recent vintages. Despite its sheer power, the tannins remain remarkably harmonious for such a young Barolo. This is a fabulous vintage for the Paiagallo. Fontanafredda remains one of the great mysteries of Piedmont. The estate owns some of the very finest vineyards in the entire region. Still, far too many wines remain undistinguished. That said, important strides are being made at the high-end. As part of his massive rebranding exercise, proprietor Oscar Farinetti has removed the Lazzarito bottling from the Fontanafredda lineup and added it to the Mirafiore offerings, also reviewed in this issue. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2005 Barolo La Villa is a decidedly darker, firmer wine packed with black cherries, French oak, new leather, tar, menthol, licorice and spices. Here the tannins clamp down on the authoritative finish with notable force. Patience is required, but this, too, is shaping up to be a strong effort from Fontanafredda. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. These 2005s are the finest Barolos I can recall tasting here. The estate seems to have toned down the super-ripe style of recent years and the results are striking. As I have written here before, Fontanafredda owns some of the most prized vineyards in all of Piedmont, and clearly has potential for making important wines of the highest level.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2004 Barolo La Villa initially comes across as more restrained than the La Rosa. It possesses notable delineation in its aromas and flavors, with lively notes of minerality that frame the ripe dark fruit and French oak. This medium-bodied Barolo offers outstanding balance, if not the level of excitement I had hoped for in the 2004 vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. Despite having changed its ownership structure recently there is sadly little reason to hope that Fontanafredda will ever right its ship as the estate is saddled with legacy issues that make it very difficult to compete in today’s environment. This is an underwhelming set of wines, especially considering the superb vineyards the estate owns.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Planted in 1977, these historic vineyards produce a meaty and intense wine with deep tones of black fruit and an austere, brooding personality. Thick flavors of plum, black cherry, roasted almond, licorice and Christmas spice glide over the palate. It’s a chewy, succulent wine with a long cola-like finish.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 91