The 2020 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore La Cengia (with 20,000 bottles made) reveals medium-dark concentration with plenty of dark fruit, spice, dried cherry and plum. The wine is round and nicely textured with enough fruit intensity and spice to drive good length over what is essentially an informal and youthful red wine from northern Italy. Winemaking starts in steel, and this blend of Corvina, Rondinella and other local grapes goes into large oak casks for 12 months.

There is plenty of cherry sweetness to the 2016 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore la Cengia, with fresh, plump berries and some candied cherry in there as well. I love that bright intensity. This wine would work well with a traditional Venetian bigoli con l'anatra (pasta with duck sauce), thanks to its tonic and fresh quality of fruit, all spread over a mid-weight mouthfeel.

The 2014 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore la Cengia delivers attractive brightness and a balanced approach. This is a well made effort with a silky texture that is enhanced by aromas of black cherry, dried fruit and moist chewing tobacco. The effect is savory and spicy. La Cengia is a food-friendly expression with good structure and a dry finish.

The 2012 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore La Cengia is a delicious choice to pair next to lamb shish kababs marinated in cumin and lemon. This tasty red wine delivers a long succession of dark fruit flavors accented by touches of sweet spice and grilled herb. It wraps smoothly over the palate.

The 2011 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore La Cengia is exceptionally beautiful and balanced. There’s a lot going on: background tones of balsam herb, rosemary and black olive follow straightforward aromas of dried fruit and prune. A pretty touch of eucalyptus springs forth. The wine is incredibly light, buoyant and lively despite the elaborate Ripasso process. Drink 2014-2018. If you can name but two producers in Valpolicella (I’m betting they are Dal Forno and Quintarelli), it’s now time to add a third: Lorenzo Begali. Lorenzo and his children Giordano and Tiliana make the most exciting wines in the region today. These are inaugural reviews (Begali has never been reviewed by The Wine Advocate). Visiting this small estate, tall and lanky Giordano will win you over with his impassioned dedication to the traditional Pergola Veronese growing system. He and his father believe that overhead trellising is the secret to making quality wine and controlling yields. Having now tasted this beautiful collection of new releases, I am a true Begal-iever. Importers: Siema Llc., www.siemawines.com; Vignaioli Imports, www.vignaioliamerica.com; Un Po Pazzo, www.unpopazzo.com