The 2010 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Vigneto della Riva di San Floriano is layered with subtle hints of earthiness, smoke, yellow peaches and licorice. There is an understated richness that is hard to fully describe. This is far from an easygoing Prosecco, rather it is a wine loaded with character and personality. The finish is dry, bracing and totally inviting. This is Lot: L 11 027. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Importer: Vin Divino, Ltd., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2008 Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rive di San Floriano is sinewy, powerful and incredibly structured, with tons of bright, penetrating minerality. Smoke, ash, minerals and white peaches linger on the dry finish. The San Floriano is a serious wine best enjoyed with food rather than as an aperitif. It is the Salon of Prosecco. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Nino Franco makes some of the finest Proseccos readers are likely to encounter. These wines are loaded with tons of personality, something that has become increasingly hard to find with the huge boom in production levels the region has seen. Importer: Vin Divino, Ltd., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2007 Prosecco Brut Rive di San Floriano has just 10 grams of residual sugar per liter, which gives it a taut, focused personality that sits on a razor’s edge of minerality. The wine offers a touch more focus and power than the Primo Franco, with fruit and energy to spare. Readers who think Prosecco can’t be a serious drink should check out this terrific wine. This is Lot 8074. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Readers who want to explore Prosecco at its finest should put this estate at the top of their shopping lists. Franco’s NV Prosecco is also worth seeking out and is reviewed in Issue 178. Importer: Vin Divino, Ltd., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

A serious, full, but still light wine, the 2000 Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Rustico Rive di San Floriano reveals mineral and almond notes. The wine is best drunk during its first 12-15 months of life.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700