A 90-10 blend of Grenache and Syrah from several lieux-dits, Hillaire's 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape is light-hued, with scents of strawberries, cherries and a hint of fresh herbs. Aged in older oak, it's full-bodied but light and airy, silky and charming, with a long, slightly herbal finish. Drink it on the young side.

Hillaire's 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape doesn't show the individuality of the parcel selections, but delivers a ripe, plush, easy-drinking wine, loaded with red fruit. Hints of garrigue and orange zest add interest to the red raspberries and cherries that flow across the full-bodied palate into a silky finish.

With its abundance of rich, chocolaty flavors, I'd opt for drinking the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape within the next 6-7 years, while it still retains a bit of freshness. Full-bodied, concentrated and plummy, it's velvety in texture, finishing with more chocolaty flavors.

The young estate has turned out some crazy good 2016s, including the "basic" 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape, a blend of 90% Grenache and the rest Mourvèdre and Syrah, all from the lieu-dit of Grand Pierre. Aged in concrete and neutral barrels, it shows terrific balance, matching black cherries and raspberries with hints of garrigue, and ample weight and richness on the palate with fine, silky tannins. Concentrated, flavorful and long, this should be available for around $50, making it a relative bargain.

The 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition checks in as 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah from four separate terroirs: Escondudes, Mourre de Gault, Grand Pierre and Font de Michelle. These are mostly rolled stone and sandy terroirs, and this cuvée was completely destemmed and aged in barrels. It offers pretty, elegant notes of black raspberries, framboise, spice and a touch of garrigue in a charming, slightly mid-weight style. It should drink well right out of the gate.