The Patrizia Cencioni 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 123 was born in a hot and dry vintage that produced very rich and concentrated fruit. You taste some of that extra intensity here, but the wine is also redolent of toasted oak spice and cured tobacco. The finish is lean, and the tannins are dry. I would recommend this Riserva for near or medium-term drinking. Only 3,730 bottles were made.

Opening to a dark garnet color and a solid, full-bodied approach, the Patrizia Cencioni 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 123 is redolent of dark fruit and plum, but there is also quite a bit of savory spice and smoke that blankets the nose. The wine feels powerful and hot (although it registers a relatively tame 14% alcohol), and the tannins are granular and stemmy. Production is 5,145 bottles.

This Brunello opens to a deep garnet color with darkened crimson highlights. The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 123 Patrizia Cencioni shows those quintessentially Brunello characteristics of tarry black fruit, balsam herb and moist earth. The wine offers a pretty portrait of the Sangiovese grape. This Riserva expression offers extra heft and power to give it more mouthfeel momentum. The cool conditions of the 2013 vintage have contributed to the freshness and structure you get here. Only 3,500 bottles were released.

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 123 Patrizia Cencioni reveals a touch of sour fruit that never lifts completely. Yet the wine also shows a generous delivery of ripe fruit from this hot vintage in Montalcino. Cooked cherry and blackberry preserves segue to sweet spice and moist chewing tobacco. The wine ends on a sweet note of candied cherry, and the overall complexity is reduced in this edition.

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 123 is a nicely balanced wine that boasts a somewhat timid approach. This comes as a pleasant surprise next to the more flamboyant and upfront wines that characterized this classic vintage. The bouquet opens slowly and seductively to reveal dark fruit, prune and spice. The finish is streamlined and the tannins are beautifully polished and integrated. This Riserva scores well in terms of overall elegance.