The 2006 Pinot Noir Seven Springs Vineyard offers a complex bouquet of pain grille, spice box, damp earth, black cherry, and black raspberry. This is followed by a medium- to full-bodied wine with gobs of dark fruits, intense, savory flavors excellent depth and concentration, and a 45-second finish. Drink it from 2010 to 2018. Mark Vlossak, partner/winemaker of St. Innocent Winery, was in a pleasant mood when I saw him in late July of 2008 and why not? He has moved into a splendid new facility where he can take full advantage of his winemaking talents. Furthermore, his 2006 Pinot Noirs are very successful and his 2007s in barrel might be even better. Tel. (503) 378-1526; www.stinnocentwine.com

The 2004 Pinot Noir “Seven Springs Vineyard” has a green element, something I found in a good many 2004 Pinot Noirs. Aside from that, the wine has some richness and depth in a forward style. It is for drinking now and over the next several years. Owner/winemaker Mark Vlossak operates his winery out of an industrial park in Salem. He sources from some of the finest sites in the Willamette Valley, turning out flavorful Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, selling them at remarkably fair prices. Check out St.-Innocent’s website for Vlossak’s harvest reports to get the lowdown on recent vintages and to see how a skilled winemaker adapts to the varied conditions presented by the region’s fickle weather. Tel. (503) 378-1526; www.stinnocentwine.com. Also tasted: 2005 Pinot Gris “Vitae Springs Vineyard (91), 2005 Pinot Gris “Shea Vineyard” (92), 2005 Pinot Blanc “Freedom Hill Vineyard (90), 2005 Chardonnay “Freedom Hill Vineyard (92), 2005 Chardonnay “Anden Vineyard” (91)

I adored the complex violet, red cherry, blackberry, bilberry, spice, and rose-laced aromatics of the 2003 Pinot Noir Seven Springs Vineyard. This structured, medium-bodied wine demands cellaring. Noticeably concentrated and deep, its red and black cherry-dominated personality is ensconced in ripe tannin and will require patience before it fully blossoms. Drink it between 2009 and 2016. It is heartening to see that Mark Vlossak, St.-Innocent’s winemaker and co-owner, has maintained reasonable prices even after having received considerable praise for his wines over the years. www.stinnocentwine.com; tel. (503) 378-1526

Tasted two weeks after its bottling, the 2002 Pinot Noir Seven Springs Vineyard is another in a line of majestic wines Vlossak has crafted from one of Oregon’s finest properties (sadly, its dynamic owner and manager, Joni Weatherspoon, passed away this year). Medium to dark ruby-colored and revealing awesomely complex aromas of violets, roses, cinnamon, dark cherries, and cloves, this medium to full-bodied wine is concentrated, well-structured, and profound. Its elegant personality is redolent with blackberries, dark cherries, a myriad of flowers, herbs, and notes of briery fruits. In addition, this beauty reveals a prolonged, fruit-packed finish. Experience has taught me that Vlossak’s wines from this vineyard evolve magnificently. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. Tel. (503) 378-1526 www.stinnocentwine.com

The restrained 2000 Pinot Noir Seven Springs Vineyard needs air to reveal itself. Perfume, black raspberries, violets, and cherries gradually unfold in its delightful nose. Medium to full-bodied, it has admirable concentration, depth, and refinement. Brambleberries, black cherries, and flowers dominate its flavor profile and extensive finish. Projected maturity: 2005-2012. "Regardless of what some may say, 2000 is not a great vintage," announced Mark Vlossak, Saint Innocent's owner and winemaker. "It's good, but not in the same league as 1998 and 1999." Consumers should pay particular attention to Saint-Innocent's offerings. Not only are they some of the finest wines made in Oregon but they are among the most reasonably priced. Tel. (503) 378-1526