With brooding aromas, subdued fruit and plenty of tannins, this is one for the cellar. Things kick off with some earthy, mildly sulfuric scents—you could even say that it’s tough to like at first. But with time, classic leather and dried-cherry fruit emerge, followed by a perfect smokiness to the grip-galore finish. It’s a traditional wine, one that could use several years to lose its clumsy youth and reveal its true character. And even then you should serve it with food. ——M.S.(11/15/2002)—— 91