Smoke, incense, tar and licorice meld into layers of dark red fruit in the 2009 Barbaresco Bernardot. I especially like the vibrancy and energy here, two qualities that are hard to find in 2009. There is a centeredness and intensity of fruit that is hugely appealing. At the same time the Bernardot has soft, refined tannins that contribute to its fabulous overall balance. A final burst of gorgeous, balsamic-infused fruit informs the dark, powerful finish. I continue to like what is happening at Ceretto. This is a great showing. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. It’s great to see Ceretto – one of Piedmont’s iconic families – doing so well after a lackluster period in the 1990s and early 2000s. Ceretto’s top 2009 Barbareschi are easily among the very best of the year. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661