The 2000 Barbaresco Asili, darker in color than the Faset, and with a more potent nose with much incense and penetrating alcohol, is longer, deeper, and more extracted and can be consumed from 2004 to 2015. Importer: Veuve Cliquot, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

Somewhat confusingly, Ceretto’s estate wines from Barbaresco are now bottled under the name Bricco Asili, with Ceretto only in small letters. But the quality is in the bottle. Smoky, meaty aromas give way with air to dried cherries, leather and a touch of citrus. Darker notes of asphalt and chocolate join in on the palate, which is big, muscular and chewy without being overdone. Finishes long, picking up flavors and a texture akin to cocoa powder.——W.E.(4/2/2004)—— 93

Beautifully balanced and fragrant Barbaresco, with floral notes joining scents of leather and fresh cherries. Hints of milk chocolate and vanilla sneak in on the palate, but the emphasis remains on the fruit. The mouthwatering finish boasts supple tannins, suggesting midterm ageability; try 2008–2015. ——W.E.(4/2/2004)—— 91