More tight and reserved than the open-knit Le Meal Blanc, the 2006 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree offers a heavenly bouquet of caramelized orchard fruits, celery seed, buttered hazelnuts, orange blossom and white flowers. Just crazy good on the palate, with full-bodied richness and a seamless, unctuous texture, it has incredible purity, precision and length, with this liquid rock-like minerality on the finish. It's just about as good as it gets, and while it's drinking great today, it should keep for 2-3 decades.

Very rich, with nearly oily texture and ripe, slightly smoky notes of mango, creamed peach, guava and melon. Long and creamy through the finish, with a buried stony minerality that helps stretch it out. There's more power now, so let this assimilate fully in the cellar. Best from 2010 through 2025. 967 cases made.