Leading off three single-vintage whites from Hermitage, the stunning 2013 Ermitage Cuvee de L’Orée has an off-the-hook bouquet that includes just about everything you could think of when considering Hermitage Blanc. White peach, white flowers, almond paste, quince and wet rock are just some of the nuances, and it packs a serious punch on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a flamboyant, expansive texture and riveting focus and purity. Give it a year or so and drink it over the following 2-3 decades.

3.5 ha, 100% Marsanne. The grapes producing De l’Orée come from the plot Les Murets in the eastern part of the hill. The soil was formed by alluvions coming from the Rh?ne and Isère Rivers during the ice age. It is composed of rolled pebbles and sand. The old vines (70 years old) guarantee low yields of high quality grapes. Very deep coppery gold. Heady flowers/lilies on the nose. Stone fruits on the palate. Neat and complete and quite evolved already. Very charming – manages to combine body and freshness. Quite a triumph. Though a bit lighter than many vintages.