Aromas of game and wood smoke from the Croix 2006 Beaune Bressandes lead into a smoke-tinged, bitter-sweet black fruited (and "beet rooted"), meaty, somewhat severely tannic palate. This displays promising, almost liqueur-like concentration of fruit and the promise of real mineral and carnal depth. But I would want to monitor it (specifically, its tannins) in 2010 before ascertaining its probably longer-term potential. In late 2004, David Croix – winemaker of Camille-Giroud (about whose wines, consult my separate report in this issue as well as in issue 170) – was able with outside investors to purchase the long-somnolent but well-endowed Domaine Duchet. Veteran Burgundy lovers may recall the widespread availability of Duchet wines – often from mature vintages – that where shipped stateside during the 1980s. The wines of his second vintage as Domaine des Croix – not all of which I had chance to taste, and none before their summer, 2008 bottling – speak to both his talents and the estate's quality of acreage and vines. What's more, they promise to offer rare examples of excellent value in Burgundy crus. And Croix's Corton Charlemagne – on which I'll publish notes shortly – is quite exciting. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70