Smoke, new leather, licorice and dark red cherries emerge from the 2005 Barolo Conca, which is the most dense and full-bodied of the wines at this stage. The warm microclimate at Conca has yielded a wine of uncommon ripeness and elegance. This is another compelling wine from Revello. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is another outstanding set of wines from brothers Enzo and Carlo Revello, two young, passionate growers in La Morra who embody the artisan spirit that is so alive in these hills. The winery itself is located in the Annunziata part of La Morra and offers beautiful views of the surrounding vineyards. The 2005 Barolos clearly show the importance of vineyard exposure and microclimate in this vintage. Most of the single-vineyard wines see 50% new oak with the exception of the Gattera, which is aged in a medium-sized cask. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

A big cru that needs a little time; lots of fine sour cherry fruit not yet fully balanced.