The 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna Il Poggiale possesses great depth and richness, something that was difficult to come by in this vintage. Black cherries, licorice and underbrush emerge from the wine’s big frame. Sweet, finessed tannins give this intense Chianti a wonderful sense of poise. The Poggiale is 90% Sangioveto, 5% Canaiolo and 5% Colorino that spent 14 months in French oak, of which 20% was new. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is a fine set of new releases from Castellare and proprietor Paolo Panerai. The estate is located in Castellina, right in the heart of Chianti Classico. The colorful birds that are featured on the labels are native species that have returned to an ecosystem that has been restored through the elimination of pesticides and herbicides in the vineyards. Panerai prefers to call Sangiovese by its historical name, Sangioveto, a convention I have followed in these notes. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620