The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggiale shows great energy and momentum. It opens with masculine tones of leather and fire-cured tobacco that are absolutely stunning next to the black currant and jellied blackberry. The flavor intensity is of special note. The finish is elegant, silky and long. This is a terrific effort. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025. When publisher Paolo Panerai set out to buy a wine estate in the late 1970s he had the great foresight and intuition to purchase Castellare di Castellina. He selected a property with a proven track record and enormous untapped potential. Over the decades and under his steady leadership, Castellare earned an unquestionable reputation for consistency and excellence. Winemaker Alessandro Cellai, with the estate since 1997, plays a pivotal role in guaranteeing that status. Castellare di Castellina is one of the great estates of Tuscany. Importer: Winebow; www.winebow.com