This is a stunning proprietary red wine offering. The plum-colored 1997 San Martino exhibits gorgeously thick, juicy aromas of black fruits, cherries, earth, smoke, and dried Provencal herbs. High in glycerin and husky, with ripe fruit, low acidity, sweet tannin, and a long, 35-40-second finish, its precocious, opulent texture and up-front fruit suggest it will evolve effortlessly for 10-12 years. Impressive! Importer: Fine Wines International, Rutherford, NJ; tel. (201) 935-5935

Older vines from the named vineyard provide the fruit for this 100% Sangiovese, barrique-aged Super Tuscan. The cherry, tart-berry and chocolate aromas pick up vibrant licorice accents as they blossom into full flavors on the palate. The already svelte mouthfeel should only improve, as the still substantial, firm tannins on the cocoa-tinged finish resolve. Hold for three years; drink 2004–2010.——W.E.(5/1/2001)—— 91