The 2005 San Martino is a selection of the estate’s finest Sangiovese. It is a pretty, delicate wine in this vintage. Sweet tobacco, cedar and spices add complexity to the dark fruit. The tannins are marked by excessive woodiness and dryness. With a little more care, this could be a substantially better wine. Ultimately the 2005 comes off as being a touch on the frail side. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Villa Cafaggio is located in the famous Conca d’Oro in Panzano, one of the very finest spots in all of Tuscany. The estate’s neighbors include Fontodi, La Massa and Castello dei Rampolla. It would be nice to see Villa Cafaggio make wines of a similar level. Importer: F & F Fine Wines International, Inc., Rutherford, NJ; tel. (201) 935-5945