Villa Cafaggio’s 2004 San Martino is 100% Sangiovese from vineyards in Greve, in the heart of Chianti Classico, that is aged in 225-liter French oak barrels. Fragrant aromatics meld into an expressive palate of vibrant red cherries, licorice and tar. It remains a very primary wine that needs bottle age for its full range of aromas and flavors to emerge. Nevertheless, the finessed tannins are clearly those of a superb wine. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Importer: F & F Fine Wines International, Inc., Rutherford, NJ; tel. (201) 935-5935

Rich, plummy nose, chocolate and hint of cloves. Fairly rich, velvety. Spice, depth of flavour; will gain complexity with age.