The 2001 San Martino, the top Sangiovese selection, is quite dark for a wine from this variety, spicy, penetrating, and chocolatey in aroma, firm and rich in its structure and texture, intense and velvety on the finish. It will easily drink well for another dozen years. Importer: Classic Wine Imports, West Roxbury, MA; tel. (800) 362-4429

Big, rich and painted in broad brush strokes, San Martino is a meaty, fleshy wine you can sink your teeth into. It offers clean notes of cherry candy, licorice and resin and follows through with gritty texture and crisp notes of bright fruit on the close.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 90