The 2009 Chardonnay was barrel-fermented in new French oak and aged sur lie for 4 months with weekly batonnage. Toasty popcorn aromas meld with floral, melon and citrus scents to complete the nose of this medium-bodied, smooth-textured wine whose oak is fully integrated on the palate. It over-delivers in a big way. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. The Vega Sindoa label, produced by Bodegas Nekeas in Navarra entirely from estate-grown fruit, has long been known for value. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; Tel. (781) 461-5767

For Spanish Chardonnay, this is perfectly good and clean. The nose brings your basic set of white-fruit, mineral and fresh herb flavors, while the palate is lively despite some dry, resiny oak flavor. Even with banana, vanilla and creamy flavors, the wine is decidedly not cloying. ——M.S.(12/15/2010)—— 87