The only white from Bodegas Nekeas to see some wood is the 2011 Chardonnay, which is barrel-fermented in new French Allier oak barrels, given weekly batonnage, and aged for four months on its lees prior to bottling. When first produced by Bodegas Nekeas, this wine seemed to have just a trifle too much oak, but now the wood component has been pushed to the background in favor of exotic orange marmalade, honeysuckle and caramelized citrus notes along with some subtle wood spice. This is an opulent, medium-bodied Chardonnay to drink over the next 12-18 months. Bodegas Nekeas is located in the town of Anorbe, north of Navarra in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Owned by eight separate families, it is a state-of-the-art facility dedicated to value wines that Jorge Ordonez discovered at the beginning of his career. I was a huge fan of these wines when I was covering Spain, and I remain so after tasting through them for this review of the Jorge Ordonez portfolio. Importer: Value Wines from Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA, tel. (781) 461-5767; Fax (781) 461-2570; www.jorgeordonez.com