The 2005 Gamay Noir is medium ruby-colored. It has an excellent nose of spice box, violets, and black cherries with a hint of olives in the background. This is followed by a firm wine with a narrow band of black cherry fruit and a moderately tannic finish. In contrast, the two barrel samples of 2006 Gamay Noir were far more user-friendly, with more expressive bouquets and richer, deeper fruit. That is the nature of working in Oregon where each vintage has its own distinct personality. Doug Tunnel, a hands-on viticulturalist if ever there was one, received biodynamic certification for his vineyards in 2005. He is also a champion of the Gamay Noir grape and crafts arguably the finest version made outside of Beaujolais. Tel. (503) 538-5136; www.brickhousewines.com