Brick House's 1999 Gamay Noir may be the finest wine I have tasted from this varietal from the United States. Harvested on October 19 (as Doug Tunnell said, "We almost forgot it.") at 25.2 brix, or 14.2% natural potential alcohol, this is a medium to dark ruby-colored wine with intense black pepper, spice, and dark berry aromas. Medium to full-bodied and boasting a fabulously oily texture, this sweet blackberry, jammy, cherry, cassis liqueur, and spice-flavored wine is supple, juicy, and intense. Its flavors last throughout its juniper berry, clove, and cracked pepper-laced finish. Drink this outstanding wine over the course of the next five years. Tel. (503) 538-5136.