From a vintage that is something of an insider's choice today, the 1988 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes offers up aromas of plums, red berries, rose petals, violets, incense and sweet forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless, with melting tannins and a perfumed, licorice-inflected finish, this vibrant, sensual wine has aged with real grace, and it's liable to overshadow the more famous 1990 today.