When the world's wine lovers speak of Jean-Francois Coche the words Corton-Charlemagne are sure to follow. Personally, I feel his Meursault Perrieres is just as extraordinary, and sometimes more so. This vineyard contributes an element of refinement and class to Coche's hedonistic, powerful, and intense style. The 1996 is breathtaking because tasting it is a levitating experience. Its beguiling, almost spiritual bouquet is composed of precisely defined minerals. The palate is greeted by explosive, powerful, awesomely elegant, intense, mouth-coatingly sweet and yet bone dry stones, gravel, crisp pears, and toasty oak. This unbelievably dense and complex, yet pure and perfectly defined wine is massively structured and has an unending finish that reveals cardamon, anise, honeysuckle blossoms, and spices. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2010+. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.