The 1998 Alte di Altesi, a barrique-aged blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, boasts a deep ruby color along with a big, sweet nose of chocolate, espresso, and berry fruit. It also reveals some of Cabernet's weedy tobacco character, excellent ripeness, and a medium to full-bodied, long, textured finish. Drink it over the next 5-7 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620