The top of the line 2005 Sauvignon Quartz explodes from the glass in a kaleidoscopic display of rich, honeyed fruit and varietal aromatics, with superb precision and a full-bodied, intense personality. As it sits in the glass it puts on considerable weight yet never comes across as heavy. This extreme interpretation of Sauvignon is a beautiful effort from Cantina di Terlano. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2016. Cantina di Terlano is one of Italy’s top estates, something made all the more remarkable considering it is a cooperative. The entry-level bottlings have been among my favorite house wines for many years. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, they offer much varietal character at reasonable prices. They are also a great introduction for readers who want to learn more about the unique wines of Alto Adige. In addition, the estate produces a set of single-vineyard whites and reds which are reference-point wines for the region. The single-vineyard wines typically spend longer on their lees and are aged partly or wholly in casks. The top-of-the-line selections (in fatter bottles) see a percentage of smaller barrels. The Sauvignon Quarz, Gewurztraminer Lunare and Nova Domus in particular represent some of the most intensely flavored, unique and age-worthy wines to come out of the region. Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (204) 294-4899

This interpretation of Northern Italian Sauvignon Blanc puts more emphasis on a creamy mouthfeel and smooth consistency than it does on bursting aromatics and fragrance. You’ll get big, broad brushstrokes of stone fruit and chopped nuts, but the real action here is in the mouth.——M.L.(9/1/2007)—— 89