The 2009 Barbera d’Alba offers terrific varietal delineation and character in a vibrant, fruit-driven style best suited to near term drinking. As delicious as this is, some rustic elements remain – particularly in the aromatics – that I often find in this entry-level bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Hilberg-Pasquero is one of my favorite wineries in Roero. The wines are made with a natural, non-interventionalist approach in both the vineyards and cellar. As a result, there can be some variation in quality from vintage to vintage, but at their best these are some of the most unique reds readers will come across. Importer: Vignaioli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-3095