The most intriguing wine in this quartet is the 2004 Pinot Noir Ashley’s Vineyard. This beautifully layered Pinot boasts notes of smoked game, black currants, cherries, underbrush, and forest floor. Layered, dense, rich, and full-bodied with a silky finish, it should evolve for another 7-8 years. Tel. (805) 688-1545

There’s lots of harsh acidity and tannins in this Pinot, which makes it tough at this time. It’s a scoury, astringent wine and the best it can offer is a very dry, acidic rosehip tea flavor. Will it age? It’s anyone’s guess, but I’d say no. ——S.H.(10/1/2006)—— 84